Wheeler Crest action

Over the last month or so (early 2022) the Wheeler Crest has seen a flurry of winter climbing action. Much of this has been spearheaded by Richard Shore, who may be the the current expert on climbs in this area. He and Joel Kaufmann put up Scottish Astronauts on the Rocketship a few years ago, and an extension/variation to this route was one of the first things to go down this season. 

In late January Tad McCrea, Jack Cramer, and myself hiked in to have a look at the route. On the first ascent of that route Richard and Joel bypassed a not-quite-fully-formed ice strip with some cool looking wide climbing on the third pitch. Richard had shared a photo of the strip looking much longer this year, and Tad had spied more ice above the top of the Rocketship. 

Tad climbing the snow blobs, as viewed from inside pitch 1. Photo by Jack Cramer.

 

The route got off to an interesting start. Instead of the moderate mixed climbing the first ascentionists experienced on pitch 1, we found a tricky squeeze chimney occasionally filled in with blobs of faceted snow. At one point some tight tunneling was required to bypass a snow blob. I arrived at the belay wet and cold. Tad led a second pitch of fun and engaging climbing and then it was Jack's chance to have a crack at the ice strip.

Jack making it happen. Photo by Tad McCrea.

 

The issue was access. We had an excellent belay position level with and 30 feet right of the start of the ice, but the obvious way to get to it was from below. Jack spent some time climbing directly left of the belay on tricky mixed ground to place gear to protect the start of the climbing. Despite his efforts, after climbing down and over to the ice he was still looking at a nasty pendulum during the most strenuous climbing. The pitch has not gone clean.

Jack on the ice strip. Photo by Richard Shore.

While following Tad and I got caught up in the excitement and - I'm embarassed to admit - weren't thinking about managing the icefall hazard. Despite the generous hooks Jack left behind, I dislodged some ice that hit Tad in the eye about 25 feet below. He let out a primal roar worthy of a Viking. He rallied and finished the pitch and fortunately has not experienced any long term negative consequences. We quickly moved up to the top of the existing route.

 

Following the first pitch of the extension. Photo by Tad McCrea.

A quick scramble had us at the base of the "new" extension. Tad, not to be held back, cruised a long pitch of WI 2 - 3. We moved the belay about 60 feet up and right and looked up at some steeper ice in the waning light. I'm glad that Jack and Tad suggested I start with my headlamp already on my helmet, as the pitch was longer than it looked. Though quite thick, it was hollow and not attached to the rock behind, which made for spooky climbing.

After topping out in the dark, two rappels and some scrambling took us back to the top of Scottish Astronauts.Tad came up with a great name for our variation/extension, Polish Cosmonauts (WI4 M?).

Topo by Richard Shore. The name is from a reggae song played on the ascent.

Less than a week later Richard, Tad, and Jack teamed up for another new one farther right on the Crest that they're calling My Cup Runneth Over (WI4 M5). It looks to be every bit as good and has a similar crux, tricky mixed climbing laterally off a belay to reach ice.

Jack on "My Cup..." Photo by Richard Shore.

In early February Richard and Jack returned for a new line on Wells Peak. The line starts downhill of the North Ridge rock climb and tops out on the lower angled area in the middle of the peak's east face. It features a mellow approach by Wheeler Crest standards and can be rappelled with two 60m ropes. I climbed this one the other day and can testify to it's quality. It's not long, but it's one of the cooler winter lines I've done around here. I thought it checked in around WI3 M4-5.

Jack leading the first pitch while McKenzie belays. Photo by Ian McEleney.

While up there Jack spotted a twin line to theirs and a few days later he, McKenzie Long, and I returned to tick it. It was slightly easier than it's neighbor, at around WI3 M3 but still really fun. It's about 4 pitches long and the best descent is to hike up to the top of Richard and Jack's route and rappel that.

Ian on pitch 3. Photo by McKenzie Long.

Have these routes formed before - most certainly. Have they been climbed before - who knows? Richard is the modern scholar of the Wheeler Crest and he thinks they're new. If you've climbed some of these in the past, please reach out, I'd love to hear the story and set the record straight.